tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60046609478096022642024-03-05T05:41:32.035-08:00Saturdays & EV'sChanging the world one conversion at a time.Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.comBlogger336125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-1464776394880220312022-04-29T21:09:00.000-07:002022-04-29T21:09:06.265-07:00Curtis 1238 96v 550amp Controller and HPEVS AC-35Configuring the controller to the AC-35 motor has been a challenge. I was trying with another controller but blew the Hand Held Programmer and caused the controller to loose communication with any programmer or guage. That controller is a newer 1238 96v 650amp controller. Damn, now I have to get that fixed. At least it still turns on with no errors or faults. Just can't talk to the programmer.
Since I have 4 good controllers Im good with one failure. I do hope to get the one fixed soon.
The current controller does not have the HPEVS software but should still be fine for on road vehicles. HPEVS has extra functions but I can live with what Curtis has in their software. There is plenty I can do with this controller but the amperage is limited to 550 amps instead of 650 amps.
Here is the latest video I did today after I found the offending parameter that was keeping me from getting the motor to spin freely.
<iframe class="BLOG_video_class" allowfullscreen="" youtube-src-id="uxGtHv4fVIY" width="400" height="322" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uxGtHv4fVIY"></iframe>Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-50158252348141498812022-02-09T18:00:00.001-08:002022-02-09T18:01:18.356-08:00VoltsPorsche 914 update. I am getting ready to sell the beastie but needed to be sure everything is working. I had to purchase an new Serial to USB cable with new driver. I successfully connected to the computer with the Windows 7 laptop. I had used my virtual PC on my mac the last time I connected. I had dumped that so I had to start all over again and it was successful. Im still not clear on how the ccShell program works for saving graphs and stuff. I can save some things. But because the computer to inverter works Im good to go. The motor spins up as it did before. I needed to be sure the DC/DC worked and it does and I needed to see if the charger worked. It does. The charger had a bad spade connector so I removed that and replaced it with a good heavy duty one. It now has a decent connection. Im not a fan of spade connectors in vibration environments. I also fixed the connections to the 12v battery and DC/DC so the DC/DC keeps the 12volt battery charged. There is also a box on the console with two switches. One is a flip switch and the other is a turn switch. The flip switch is a regen switch. When the switch is in the down mode it is in auto regen and in the up mode it is off or coast mode. The other switch is likely a forward and reverse switch. The switches are not labled. Not sure if I can increase the throttle ramp but it is not agressive. I have not yet driven the vehicle but will be soon. I have a new video linked below.
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Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-30137294272325585542020-05-23T00:31:00.000-07:002020-05-23T00:31:01.209-07:00VoltsPorsche AC Electric Conversion. I picked up this old conversion last summer. Been sitting on it for awhile now. It is a 1975 Porsche 914 converted to electric using an AC conversion kit offered by Electro Automotive. I do believe they are no longer in business but their web site is still up. The kit consists of an Azure Dynamics 445 induction motor inverter and an AC24 motor coupled to an adapter to the original transmission and utilizes the stock clutch and flywheel. The kit is not a terrible powerful kit but an OK kit. What makes this one cool is I have all the accompanying paperwork and files for talking to the controller/inverter. In order for this to work the original files were needed and the person I purchased this from is the one that converted the vehicle. Lead Acid batteries were used and were the only option when the kit was new. They also offered an DC kit for the Porsche 914 also The 914 was used because it is light weight, mid engine and lots of room for batteries and still remains sporty. Mine was upgraded to a stiffer suspension to support the weight of the lead acid batteries. A lead sled to be sure. I will be using lithium batteries. Most likely I will be using Nissan Leaf Modules. For a 144 volt system it takes 21 modules in series. I put together a single pack of 21 modules to test the motor and electrical system. So far so good. I had to get the program ccShell 3 running on an old copy of Windows XP and I had to install a serial to usb driver. I had a hard time locating the 32bit version of Java Runtime Environment version 5. I finally got that installed and with all the components correctly installed I was able to communicate with the inverter. The .ccs file I was given is the correct file and matches the inverter. Anyone with a kit like this that does not have the original file will not be able to change any parameters. If the original parameters are still good you can make a .par or parameter file of the parameters within the controller. If the file is not original it may not work and you may brick your inverter. Im good. I have the original and the inverter still works. This was built back in 2008. The car is 45 years old. Dang. The conversion is 12 years old. The original kit was a very expensive kit. I believe in the range of $20,000 bucks not including the car. I think that included the batteries too. Mostly the motor/inverter, and adapter. Then the other components cleaned up your wallet.<br />
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I was able to put together the proper components for the computer to talk to the inverter. It required Windows XP. I have Windows XP Pro installed on my Virtual Drive on my Mac. It required Java Runtime Environment version 5 and a Serial to USB driver in order for it to talk to the inverter. I did have to have both 12 volt and pack voltage connected before I could successfully talk to the inverter. The original file works and I can say non-original to the controller don't work. I verified that my file is the original to the inverter as stated on the inverter and the file numbers. Both match. Inverter works and runs. The short video you can hear it run and the vibration also kicked up some long standing dust on the vehicle as you will see in the video. Im putting together a 42 module 144volt Nissan Leaf battery pack. That should give me a solid 60 plus miles or more range in this vehicle. If I can fit three 21 module packs in I'll get a much further range.<br />
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Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-27177466724304361782020-02-04T06:08:00.001-08:002020-02-04T06:08:29.079-08:00Leaf Power Wall BuildWelcome to the blog. Been awhile since I posted. I am currently working on a power wall using Nissan Leaf Modules. I have cut out a ply board that will hold the weight of the modules with ease. 3/4 plywood is heavy duty. The wall is a 48 volt unit to use with a 15kW Low Frequency Inverter to power the house completely with both 110 and 240 volts. I have 7 modules in series and then stack those in parallel for a total of 21 modules. This will be a hybrid system to go without out 7.2kW solar array. We have a propane 12kW generator to power the house. So 48 volts bumped up to 110 and 240 volts and up to 200 amps. The leaf modules lend themselves rather well to power walls or power boxes. I have an idea of mounting modules between wall studs in a shed on the north side or east side to prevent soaking up too much heat. When covered they will be fully hidden except for some cooling louvers. I can build an actual wall of these modules and have them mounted securely between the studs two high and still have room to mount a ply cover. Just don't hammer nails into the walls because you will puncture a module if you do without first removing the batteries from the wall.<br />
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Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-66971414809647905732018-02-23T22:45:00.002-08:002018-02-23T22:45:58.665-08:00Nissan LeafNissan Leaf is gone. My 2015 Leaf was a lease vehicle and the Lease came up last week. So instead of keeping the Leaf I let it go back to the dealer. I tried to get them to give me a good deal on the remaining but they would not so they got the vehicle back. So Im out an electric daily driver for a while. Thats fine. It has been a good 6 year run with the two Leafs I have driven over the years. I am totally sold on electric but the price point still needs to come down before the rest of the world jumps on board. There is no sensible reason for them to keep the distances short and prices high for electric cars. They should be very much able to build a good 150 mile per charge car for around $20k and one that looks good too. No need for junk. No need for $50k cars either. Prices of cars is just outlandish in the States. Just terrible.<br />
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Im also going to try to pick up another Porsche 914 which I have lined up already for a decent price. Paint is terrible but the rest looks good and no cancer. Clean title too. Possible candidate for conversion with an AC-50 Motor and DIY inverter and Leaf Modules.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-56800836696395648092018-02-23T22:38:00.001-08:002018-02-23T22:38:52.032-08:00Alpha RomeoAlpha Romeo was sold and has made its way back to Italy. Yup, all the way back to Italy. Cool. I kept the electric components to put into my VW Bus. Yes, another change for the Bus. The AC-35 is going to go into my 67 Bug which I purchased this past November. Got it running and will be selling off the engine shortly. Yes many many changes as I progress slowly with my projects.<br />
<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-65200371053732986352017-09-14T20:20:00.001-07:002017-09-15T17:01:25.162-07:00Alfa Romeo Spider is homeRan out to pickup the Alfa today. Got there around 10:30 am. Had to wait about 15 minutes then started loading the car. Noticed that there were batteries in the car as well. That was not mentioned when the ad was posted. Also included were 27 100ah Thundersky LiFePO4 cells with all connectors and main fuse and contactor for the controller. Also included was a new Zivian 96 Volt Lithium Charger. It is only a 120v charger and not a 240 but it was included. Totally unexpected. So with the batteries and and all the little components included this is pretty much ready to make any vehicle roll and no BMS. Im quite sure that this was purchased and started when Jack Rickard was first putting out videos of his electric cars and what he had for a vision of electric cars for the future. Things change but this was a good deal.<br />
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If you know where I can get 3 100ah Thundersky Cells let me know. I could use them.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-19002174800377837252017-09-13T16:47:00.000-07:002017-09-15T17:00:54.612-07:00Alfa UpdateUpdate on the Motor/ Controller. Even though the motor is older (2010) it will handle 650 amps no problem but the controller (2010) is the old 550 amp 96 volt controller. I was told from one at HPEVS that the software can't be updated but Brian from HPEVS informed me that he could do the update. This won't allow the controller to do 650 amps but it will bring it up to new specs so that will be good. The software will be set for the AC-50. I was told that the 650 amp controller I have can only be used for the AC35 because when I sent it in for reprogramming it was set for the AC-35. No problem here. Controller will be shipped to HPEVS right away.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-47502906130490241872017-09-13T14:56:00.001-07:002017-09-15T17:00:10.219-07:00Alfa Project ContinuedLooks like maybe the Alfa Project will be more of a collect the parts project. The car is OK but I may just put this in the Bug. I did find out that the controller and motor are older models of the AC-50 and the controller is only 96 volts at 550 amps. Not the 650 amp version. I could live with that. Sent some information to HPEVS for verification. The re-flashed my old AC-35 controller with the newest software and I could actually use that controller with this motor and use the other one with the AC-35. It would give less overall torque and HP but that may be fine for the Bus since it will be mostly a locally driving thing anyway.<br />
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I'll post information as I get it from HPEVS.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-73404836038920389242017-09-13T11:13:00.002-07:002017-09-15T16:59:44.814-07:00Alfa ProjectWow, its been a very long time since I last posted here. Just sorta got busy with other things and little has happened electric car wise.<br />
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Its now official, the Alfa Project has begun. It is a project that started with another but I hope to finish this. A 79 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce was being converted to electric with an HPEVS AC-50 with the 96 volt Curtis AC Controller. The motor has been mounted to the transmission but no motor mounts have been fabricated. I do not know if it has a clutch or if its clutchless yet. I did not bother to ask that question. The car is in good condition and its color is Black. Top looks to be good but it is covered in lots of dust. The motor/controller are still new. The vehicle has no batteries yet but looks to have some electrical parts. I do not know if there is hidden rust which I found was an issue with these vehicles. But being a California car I'm not expecting that to be too much of an issue. I am going out in the morning to pick up the car. I should be home with the car before dark and hope to be able to give it a bath right away. Im looking forward to the build. The last EV conversion I rescued was the 77 MG Midget nick named the Black Midge. That was a fun little project too. It is living happily in Colorado as an all electric car even today. I hope to finish this build to a drivable vehicle quickly. I have the batteries and charger and I can even do this with a J1772 charge port.<br />
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The Alfa does have the larger uglier bumpers but they did do a nice job making even the smog year vehicles look half way decent by 79. Its a cool looking vehicle. Small for me but it still may be a decent fit. Looks to be plenty of room in the trunk and up front to mount batteries. The fuel tank area looks promising for a good chunk of battery. This would be a good candidate for Tesla Modules. Might have to go that route for this build.<br />
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More to come in the following days and weeks. My Bus Project is still moving forward. I now have all the stuff for that build to mount my AC-35. Slow project but still moving forward. The Red Roadster has stalled out but still in the works. Need to pull the tranny to fix a leak then re-install and finish the electrics.<br />
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Full time work takes precedence over any project. Lots to do there too.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-27439302814124006732017-02-08T14:44:00.002-08:002017-02-08T14:44:44.417-08:00Battery Tab Spot Welder. I was out on the web looking at different DIY battery spot welders that people have built. Most are built using repurposed microwave oven transformers and quick switches. Some were successful and all pretty much have single pulse to weld. Some were just too powerful. I did however find one that utilized a 12 car battery and and arduino board to control the power of the weld. It happens to be a DIY but you can also buy one prebuilt for you if you don't want to do that your self. As with me, I opted to just buy one already built. This sucker can be totally portable but normally uses a 12v 1amp power for the arduino and a Car Battery for the main power to weld with. It includes a place to connect up a micro switch so you can hit your switch and once you hit the switch it will not continue to weld. The board is a dual pulse board and will allow for 1 to 20 milli second pulses. The first pulse is 1/8th the power of the second. That is automatic. It is setup up to do these welds by hand but you could build a box to allow you to put constant pressure on your welds so each is consistent.<br />
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I plan on building a box to give constant pressure so I get real constant welds. I have some I want to connect together for testing and some for my RC stuff. Now that I don't have to worry about those micro wave transformers I can get on with welding. I have a series of 4 CALB cells for my 12 volt pack. Its light enough to carry and I can lug it with me if I need to weld out in the field.<br />
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Finally, a DIY welder you can build or buy to do good spot welding of the tabs instead of soldering and making a mess. I hope to build a power wall with some cells and if the cells I am testing are good I will see if I can buy enough for a pack for my EV and enough for two for my house. Built it myself and it they re LiFePO4 chemistry. The safe Chemistry.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-49613088986546541992016-07-20T20:07:00.000-07:002016-07-20T20:07:54.409-07:00E-Roadster UpdateI also had more work done to my E-Roadster from my friend evmetro. I had him put in seat belt mounts for 3 point belts and a custom roll bar and to lower my seat rails. The roll bar that was in the vehicle was only for looks and not function. It would not have saved your head in any sort of roll over. The one in the beastie now will. It looks different than I had expected but it is now safe and will protect the head as the head is below the top of the roll bar. The bar is mounted on some solid bases and mounted in a 3 point format. So now I will put in the controller and electronics and get it all working properly and when that is done I will remove all the components and take it down to a bare body with the body off the pan and restore the body to its former glory and repair any rust and crinkled metal with new metal and then repaint it Ferrari Red like the original. I will also restore the pan unless of course someone decides they want to buy the resurrected beastie. It is for sale for the right price. Always has been.<br />
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Might do the Ghia but more than likely I will also sell that at the next Bug-O-Rama this Sept in Sacramento.<br />
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The Roadster will be taken there to show its progress. Ghia will be driven there so it can be sold.<br />
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The Roll bar makes the car look funny compared to without one. I may build one for show and keep this one for race. But its those seats I have in the car. The head rest is not truly a head rest. Its more like a shoulder rest. So with that little dinky thing against that roll bar it looks rather odd. However I can assure you that my head is not far below the roll bars so looks fine when sitting in the vehicle.<br />
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Poor beastie is so dirty and dusty.<br />
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I also need to work on the brakes up front and I may have a leak in the rear drivers side brake. Time to dig in.<br />
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Pete<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-88084325106238478542016-07-20T19:37:00.002-07:002016-07-20T19:37:17.221-07:00HPEVS AC-35I had sent my AC-35 down to HPEVS and they put on the proper face plate for mounting to an adapter and also put in the proper encoder needed for street use vs industrial cart use. They also upgraded my 96 volt 650 amp controller with the newest software. I now have loads of things that will make tuning better. This setup will be going into my VW Bus and I will be using this with a 120 volt system. 16 Leaf Modules in series and 5 sets in parallel for a 30kWh pack. That should give me a decent distance. A good amount of these modules will fit where the old fuel tank resides totally out of the way. That will be cool.<br />
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When they sent my motor/controller back they boxed up the motor and controller separate. The motor is in a decent box and fitted with large poly type foam that will last for ever. The ends support the motor in the box and if that box did fall the motor would be quite safe. Im keeping my box just in case I ever need to ship or transport it for repair or what ever. I suggest you do the same if you happen to purchase one of these fine motors. Im pleased that it is back. Not to get the adapter plate and clutch and pressure plate installed. I am keeping the stock transmission but using a nicely done lightened flywheel. No need for more than stock on this puppy. If however I find I need a better pressure plate I can get one easily.<br />
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Now to move forward with my Bus project.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-19784011419124247182016-05-18T09:11:00.001-07:002016-05-18T09:11:36.751-07:001970 Ghia Ghia is home. These are pretty cool little cars but you know they still require you to climb into them. So with that I may just use this one to make money to get more for the Bus project. I can turn this around quickly and make some good cash. It is solid and rust free and accident free. Mostly original and 98,624 original miles. Yes, thats right, less than 100,000 miles. Runs great and will be a good collector item. I'll drive it as a gas vehicle for awhile then sell. I should be able to get at least a 3k profit. From what I have been seeing I may even get more. All I need to do is clean it up. A good bath and polish and a good vacuum and air this sucker out. Smells like an old VW. I still have a few more items to pickup for this fine little vehicle.<br />
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Im sending out the AC-35 to HPEVS for an upgraded end plate so I can mount the motor to the standard adapter. This motor has the wrong front end plate so they said they will put on the proper one and check out the motor. They are also going to upgrade the software on the controller for me. I'll need to get a computer dongle and software so I can program the controller properly. I'll pay it.<br />
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I had thought about converting the Ghia but I'm having second thoughts on that. The Bus has lots of room and that is what I need. Im a big guy and being 6'2" with long legs makes it harder to do the tiny car. Like that 914 I recently had I realized it was a tiny cramped car for big/tall people. Nice vehicles but still small. I do like that the 914 and the Ghia are both wide so there is plenty of width room. If I could move the seat back a bit more like two notches I'd be good to keep it for a conversion.<br />
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So now, I head off to the DMV to get it registered and insured. Then I can start driving right away.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-91155642126572113282016-05-08T18:33:00.000-07:002016-05-08T18:33:47.879-07:001970 GhiaFound a nice solid all original 1970 Ghia with no rust. Its original white but has had some spots over the years repainted. But over all the vehicle never had a full body paint over. It needs a replacement dash and rubber all around and new seat covers but the car is original and solid. Has the original running engine too. Not a replacement engine. Looks like a solid project for an upcoming replacement for my Nissan Leaf. I may just have to put a DC setup in my Bus and put the AC-35 into the Ghia.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-57010046658906589152016-03-21T20:24:00.000-07:002016-03-22T18:08:52.221-07:00Bench Testing BatteriesToday I picked up from work a set of batteries from our Portable Xray machine. It had its batteries replaced and the boss let me take the old ones home. They are sealed lead acid but small format cells stacked to give 96 volts per block or a total of 192 volts in series. They are made with pure lead and of medical quality. They are not large yet they will give me the ability to do bench testing for charging and for driving my AC motor on the bench with a load and a good amount of power. The only down side is that they are of low AH rating. Meant to be charged and discharged multiple times daily. But for the bench they will be perfect. Power and light weight. I can do some charge testing with my Synkromotive and set up the AC wall charging setup and see how well they will charge up using a demo board on the bench and be able to do a talk and video of the setup and process. I can also use the AC forklift motor/inverter setup to test under high power and under load on the bench and I can also test the charging ability of the AC motor.<br />
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I have the batteries on the charger right now since I have a lead acid charger that will do 96 volts. One pack was 101 volts and the other was at 98 volts. They won't give me full AH rating but they will do for what I need. AH rating is 2.5Ah. Not much, but enough for my testing needs.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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Sold 3 Synkromotive Controllers and I will have two left to sell. Then all the current stock will be in the hands of the people who like them. Im working to see if there is a possibility to revive Synkromotive and keep the controller from going away completely. Its a great little powerhouse controller and will be sorely missed if it goes away. It is a unique controller in that its not a overly bloated version of a golf cart controller. Its not large, nor heavy and is just a dream to use. <br />
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Anyway, back to the batteries. These will be a boon for me but they would not be good to buy a bunch of them to use for your vehicle. They are lead. Heavy if you need lots of AH's for your beastie. New they are $849 bucks discounted. Ouch. For me, Free. No leaking.<br />
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<table style="border: none; color: #666666; empty-cells: show; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; table-layout: auto; width: 620px;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Product ID:</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" itemprop="productID" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">MED0012</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Milliamp Hours:</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">2.5Ah</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Voltage:</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">192</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Termination:</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">Plug</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Chemistry:</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">Pure Sealed Lead Acid</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Weight (lbs):</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">45</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Width (in):</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">4.5000</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Length (in):</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">14.00</td></tr>
<tr><td class="product-detail-spec-title" style="border: none; color: grey; font-weight: bold; padding: 2px; width: 149px;">Height (in):</td><td class="product-detail-spec-value" style="border: none; color: grey; padding: 2px;">11.20</td></tr>
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-2437132483086334502016-03-03T07:19:00.005-08:002016-03-03T07:19:43.232-08:00AC-35Not sure how many know that I was able to purchase an AC-35 last year with all the goodies that go with it. It was from a guy that was going to build an EV but abandoned the project. I think I figured out why. I had purchased a motor adapter from ThunderStruck Motors for the AC-35 and up motors and those that might be using the Warp9 and similar with the same bolt pattern. Comes to find out that the face plate of the motor is not a B-Face plate. It is a flat C-Face style used in industrial carts and mining equipment. But not for use with the modern adapters for mounting to your car. I talked with them yesterday and they are going to put on the proper end plates and change the encoder for use in an automobile for a very reasonable price. Still leaves me at a much lower cost than if I had purchased this brand new. They are also going to upgrade the 120 volt controller to the most current software if needed. That is a bit more expensive than I had hoped but it will again be much cheaper overall for this package than buying new by a long shot. I do know the motor runs because I connected it to my DIY inverter. However I was unable to utilize the encoder. Im guessing it is not compatible with the inverters requirements or its just not working. Which it could be. I think the guy I got it from purchased it used as well. But anyway this VW Bus project is now moving forward once again.<br />
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Today I am going to setup my Synkromotive Controller Demo Board so I can charge a bank of batteries utilizing my DC old transformer style DC Battery Charger. It is a step-down transformer from 120 volts to 24 volts. I won't be charging at a high rate but it will serve the purpose of showing the charging abilities of the controller utilizing any DC source. So far I have used a large 48 volt bank of batteries and my old 240 DC welding machine to charge my batteries. Im doing this for a few folks who wish to utilize the Synkromotive as a charger. Once I have my beastie back I will be setting that up to charge my pack from wall AC then doing another video for that.<br />
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My DIY inverter project will continue and I will be trying to setup a way to connect the motor and Diesel engine together via belt drive to make this work. It really is just a matter of connecting the two and giving it a go. I was going to connect a DC motor to the AC motor and do a test that way. Might be an easier task. Maybe. I guess I'll need to bust out the welder and hack saw and weld up some brackets.<br />
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As you can see the face plate is flat and doesn't have the 4" step for centering an adapter plate and the bolt holes are too large and not far enough out to the edge. The B-Face end plate will be my ticket.<br />
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The motor tag clearly states that this is a true AC-35 motor and not one of those old AC-30 motors being touted as an AC-36 motor. <br />
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In my searching for some new old stock of Synkromotive controllers I had found someones build. It was a build of a 240Z and he used what looks to be a Warp9 motor and the Synkromotive Controller. It is a very clean build and I love the way this guy took his time in making the wiring look very very clean and tidy. This level of care is what we should all aspire to do for our own conversions. </div>
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-31321133984036344552016-01-12T21:51:00.001-08:002016-01-12T21:51:24.787-08:00My little Custom VW is back at the shop. My Son was able to do some work but his shop work was priority. So he was unable to get very much done this past 6 months. But I now have the car over at Rusher Electric and they are putting in aluminum door panels and back firewall aluminum panel. That panel will be set off and removable an the controller and components will be mounted for a clean look. Again, It will be 192 volts and 850 amps worth of CALB SE 100ah cells. The Leaf Module cells will go in the Bus. My trailer charger generator is still going to move forward but I took a winter off. Plenty of things to update for my inverter and I may even put an inverter in the Bus to power the AC motor Im putting in the Bus. I will be building another inverter but with better IGBT modules.Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-35907312055266830032015-12-29T19:32:00.001-08:002015-12-29T19:32:19.036-08:00Power Walls Heck no. I want a power brick. Its nothing more than a battery backup system when power goes out. Or you could set it up like a person fully off the grid. Use your solar to charge the brick and run your home during the day and then use the brick to power the home in the evening. A daily affair. With a large enough solar array and a large enough battery brick you can power your home totally from solar and battery power. I expect to do just that. However our home is fully electric including the water pump and heater and air. I will be using my Nissan Leaf battery modules. It is much simpler to wire up and check each module for problems before connecting them to the system. Using those recycled 18650 cells requires not only finding enough of them but you have to find enough of them that still have enough capacity to do the job you need. It is known that these cells can be dangerous but if you do the packaging like Tesla does with those small fuses per little battery you are going to have a much safer system. I for one would not install this on the house at all. I would however install it in a fire safe enclosure away from home just in case of a disaster that could burn your home down. With the Leaf Modules they are contained in a metal can and I will put the power brick off the side of the home and in a container that would keep any fire away from the home. Since the output will be AC it does not matter if the power brick is away from the home as AC will travel far enough with little loss that it will work just fine. So the trick is not the power brick but the charge controller and inverter you need to power your home. For us it all also need to be large enough to dry clothes, cook food on the range and microwave and pump water for the home and property. So we are not going to be doing a weenie little system. This will be an setup that will allow anyone to be completely off grid. It would however be a good thing if you do this completely off grid, to have a way to cook and heat the home just incase you have enough days to drain the batteries without enough light to charge with your solar. You do need to plan for the worst possible disaster. Doing this while still on the grid will require you to have the home cut off from the grid before your power brick comes on line if the main power goes out for any reason and to allow you to utilize the power brick as it was from the grid. Once back on the grid it will just be used during the evening while you sleep. Waiting to fill a need. Your power brick should last you a few days with zero power from any other source. Once that is done you need some emergency backup to the emergency back power brick.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-4942284192688385552015-06-11T23:34:00.001-07:002015-06-11T23:34:40.437-07:00Used EV Market ValueThe used EV market is upon us and it has been taken advantage of from the DIY guys and the wrecked and mangled EV's have been stripped of the EV components and are being sold off to anyone who wants them. It has been said that the used EV situation will harm the EV movement because of the Used Value on the used vehicle market. If it happens to be true and the manufacturers fail to open a market to buy new battery packs for their used EVs on the market then the EV movement will die, again. I do know that Nissan will sell you a new pack for $5200 but not including install. Still if I find a great condition lease vehicle on the market that is in need of a new battery I could buy it for a real low price and then put in a new pack and still sell it for a very good price and allow a person to get into electric vehicle for far less than new. Just like today in the used car business. A used car is not worth much if the engine is OLD and in need of replacement. With a great engine it will sell at a much higher resale price bringing up the value to reasonable level. With the EV it will mean having a great new pack installed for a reasonable price. If it happens that I can buy a Leaf in excellent condition but needing a New Pack I think it might just work. I may actually try it out with a Leaf. Buy one cheap and put in a New Pack and sell it for $18k. Still in a good used car price for a 2 to 3 years old vehicle and with a new pack. Not used. That makes it very attractive to a possible buyer. Bringing electric closer to every day prices. Even Tesla is seeing that. A used S model at a $50k price sure beats the full $120k price of new. It allows folks like me to reconsider a Tesla. Creating an excellent buyer market for used EV's. No, I'm afraid the EV movement will not die after all. There will be a huge aftermarket for the used components that it will be nothing to find a great used drive line and stuff it to another with a bad power plant. Go get a new battery and your good to go. Low miles and a new battery. Im going to do that once my Lease on the current Leaf is up. Turn it in and go find a good used EV where I can purchase a new pack and be on my way for another 5 years or so.<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-92134287552657693972015-05-07T22:30:00.003-07:002015-05-07T22:30:51.784-07:00Motor Inverter Generator Project update/recapI have been working hard on getting the inverter back running again and to find the right changes to to tweak the software to allow the motor to work smoothly. There are still some issues to deal with but for now I am a happy camper. I did find out that the encoder is working just fine on both outputs and its outputting a clean Square Wave. The motor is smooth and quiet and should do just fine. Some more voltage and amperage and connect to a Diesel Engine and try to do some charging outputs into a small pack. Start small and go big. Im happy that I have gotten this far.<br />
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So lets see, I screwed up my inverter by connecting it to the power backwards. Fried a few caps and fried an Olimex board. I was not having any luck getting back together but I finally did. Got the new caps soldered in and tested it all. Got the inverter to work and set some parameter and the motor jumped off the table. Got that done but changed the parameters to default and forgot what I did to make it jump. Its now strapped down just in case. You know, it would have made a good video seeing that jump off the table. Oh well. Mucked up another Olimex board. During all this I built another main processor board and purchased a couple Olimex boards. Oops, the boards don't have software. Oh man, now I have to learn how to do that. More hair loss. Its bad enough I don't have much more to begin with. So with the help of Johannes Huebner I was able to get this done. One programmer and using two OS systems to get it done and it works. It took a bit to get the parameters right but the motor spun up slow and clunky. Could not get it to go fast and without the clunk. But it was a noise issue with the encoder. To the point where it could have been just a bad encoder. Nope, it was me. I had the motor and inverter driven off the same battery pack. Lots of noise. I pulled out my Vicor Megapac desktop power pack. I have the inverter powered from a 12v module plugged into the Megapac. Works great except the cooling fan noise. But it keeps things alive. So with that I now get a clean square wave output and can be seen on the O-Scope. I did have to figure out how to connect up the scope as it too is a new thing for me. But I see the benefit in having one. It helped to see the problem and with the change in how I powered the inverter it showed a change so the inverter could operate properly. I do still have a long encoder cable. It will be cleaned up later but for now on the bench it will be just fine. So now I am at a point where I need to get the motor connected to my Diesel Engine for a load test. I'll use the motor to drive the diesel engine then use the engine to drive the motor.<br />
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So here is my latest video.<br />
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A good clean square wave Encoder Output. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZJg1V0cgv0v_QogpkB0O1qLSBzsIisvEeaoz79HImWVF45mqHX7EdqXmV3AoZw8if1JEtvK4ahO5KIOIcOyzmwczsTrM5-BiLtJA_Edyv10axeGLBa3ImPNQDS9BnUqF2fUVgXwivKEN/s1600/IMG_3177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZJg1V0cgv0v_QogpkB0O1qLSBzsIisvEeaoz79HImWVF45mqHX7EdqXmV3AoZw8if1JEtvK4ahO5KIOIcOyzmwczsTrM5-BiLtJA_Edyv10axeGLBa3ImPNQDS9BnUqF2fUVgXwivKEN/s320/IMG_3177.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-33231099719813696652015-05-06T07:27:00.001-07:002015-05-06T07:27:13.816-07:00Inverter Settings<div style="text-align: center;">
Just a quick screen shot of the settings I have on my inverter. </div>
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-24712036412315058882015-05-05T23:22:00.001-07:002015-05-05T23:22:33.054-07:00Solar InverterWell don't I feel like a dope. Our inverter had gone off line last month and it had a frequency error code. I had checked every possible place to check including the breaker panel. I did not look close enough and found one of 4 breakers thrown. It had not moved much and I missed it altogether. I had even picked up an Auora 6kW inverter to replace the SunnyBoy inverter. Well, resetting the breaker put it back on line. So my inverter purchase was not really needed. I will however keep it because I know the other one will crap out some day. The Aurora is a non transformer inverter so I hope it will be much better or maybe I can get a few more 200w panels and make another 7kW system and put up another system to give us a 14kW solar array. Good thing is I did not have to replace the inverter that I had thought was screwed up again. I have learned an expensive lesson.<br />
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I need to build a nice ground mount system.<br />
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Pete :)Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-16632680106893839442015-05-05T23:08:00.000-07:002015-05-05T23:08:03.470-07:00Motor Inverter part 2There was some headway but not a great deal. Looking at the parameters and trying everything. Lots to play with. Some things are not connected so not an issue right now. Trying to smooth it out and trying to get the regen back.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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<br />Pete McWadehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08288980906309612950noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6004660947809602264.post-5438846588425976612015-05-02T21:11:00.001-07:002015-05-02T21:11:37.910-07:00Motor & InverterWell, well, well. I finally got the inverter fixed and got the inverter re-programmed. Now I can re-program if any updates come available. There was one thing stumping me and that was the emergency stop function. It kept coming up as zero and it needs to be a 1. 1 means the inverter has not been stopped and is good to go. The original inverted I purchased did not have that wire connected and it needed to be connected to a high voltage of 7 volts or higher. God only knows how it ever ran with that always being in emergency stop mode. The wire was never connected at all. So, I got it connected now to 12 volts to keep it high. No need for an emergency shut down. Well, maybe I can setup a 12 volt switch and use that for a table top emergency shut down if I happen to have to shut it down fast. That should be an easy thing to wire up. So with that, I was able to get the motor to run again and even run in Start Mode 2 which I was never able to do before. I now have to re-charge my battery so I can do some more testing. Its on the charger now and happily charging at 15 amps. Once I have that done I will need to get the inverters heat sink working. Its a water cooled sink and it got hot doing a bit of running at 37 amps. Now to move along and set some parameters to tweak the inverter to the motor. Im only running 12 volts so that will have to change soon. I need to get a good 12 volt pump for the cooling system. Time to hit Jack up for one of his pumps for folks who have water cooled sinks. So I did a quick video with the motor running albeit roughly in Start 1 Mode and Start 2 Mode. I am moving forward once again and have learned a crap load of stuff about flashing a chip with software. It took a bit but I got through it with the help of Johannes Huebner.<br />
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Pete :)<br />
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