Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Kaylor with Series Controller Project Continues.

I am still continuing with the Kaylor project for now but just using a standard off the shelf Series Motor Controller. To do this all you need to do is shunt the field from A+ to B+ then connect all else as usual like it was a series motor. I tried this the other day but had forgotten to shunt it properly which caused a massive feed back or plug braking effect all the time and it heated the motor pretty hot and the controllers (I tried with two different ones) scorching hot on one side. So I did not take that any further. A couple guys suggested that maybe the field was not correct and I went back to my old Kaylor Manual I have and I did in fact have it connected up wrong. I was amazed at how quickly they became scorching hot under no load conditions.
  Yesterday I decided to give it another try since the Kelly was no longer usable and it would only take a short time to connect the series controller anyway. This time the field was shunted properly so the motor is really more like a series motor now but it has fine windings for the field instead of thick fat heavy ones like a series motor. Got it all connected and low and behold it worked and it worked well under a no load condition. Also I played with it for a very long time and the controller remained totally cool to the touch during the entire time. The motor did warm up and I expect that.
  The motor is an old Military Starter/Generator with one field connected common with the armature. I just finished the connection so it acts like your normal series type motor. Our series motors are connected that way via 4 terminals and these only have three usable terminals with one connection deep inside the motor. These motors are also interpole motors so we can leave them neutral timed. An interesting thing is that they spin into the long side of the brushes which seams opposite what it should be and what most series motors turn.
  The motor I am using right now also has split brushes like the Helwig brushes except mine don't have the soft top. It is interesting that the split brushes are NOT NEW.

Pete :)


  1. Hi Pete,

    Did you tried this but with the old pb-6 clone?


  2. The PB-6 does work. I tried with a few different configurations but the best one was with my good throttle but it does not go to zero like the controller expects. My old PB-6 sucks. Some of the issue I think is the controller I was testing. The controller in the vid is a Beta Test Unit. It is not mine.

  3. Thanks for the reply. I am asking this because on my conversion I was thinking that my pb-6 was not working so fine. But measuring with an ohmmeter I got good readings. reads 1.6 ohms to 4.3 Kohms with no OL, always continuous.

  4. What controller are you using in your project?